Seneca Rocks

Seneca Rocks is a striking geological formation, comprised of white/gray Tuscarora quartzite that have been upended and rotated 90 degrees to form a sharp, distinct ridgeline. The quartzite plate is approximately 250 feet thick, composed of fine grains of sand that were laid down in the Silurian Period some 440 million years ago, in an extensive sand shoal at the edge of the ancient Iapetus Ocean. As the ocean closed and the underlying rock uplifted and folded, millions of years of erosion stripped away the overlying rock and left remnants of the arching folds in the form of these landmark outcrops. During WW2, she was used to train American soldiers in preperation for deployment to Italy. Now, Seneca Rocks is a popular weekend crag for those in the Virginia and DC area.

Seneca is entirely multi-pitch trad climbing, with great exposure and infamously stiff old-school ratings. A full trad rack is needed, with smaller cams, hexes, and tri-cams coming in handy. Climbers who come to her with an inflated ego are often brutally humbled. I highly recommend starting with a climb significantly below your grade ability, even the easier climbs offer a lot to enjoy.

I learned to climb in 2024 while working a seasonal job at Nelson Rocks- the unpopular, ugly younger sister of Seneca Rocks. Despite my intrigue and interest in Seneca, I could not find anyone to take me to the summit. Trad climbing is an expensive, exclusive club for middle-aged white men, and being neither white or male, I was not procedurally assigned a mentor. So I spent the summer gazing longingly at her from the Yokums parking lot - what was up there that I could not have? Soon, I took it upon myself to buy a rack and start leading. Perhaps not the best idea, but neither is climbing Seneca. It terms of the American east coast, Seneca might be the closest you can get to climbing that feels "real", for the lack of a better term. As the old saying goes; "If you can climb at Seneca, you can climb anywhere."

notable routes

pleasant overhangs 5.7

A very large and intimidating three pitch climb that feels 'real'. The highlight is the second pitch, an overhanging traverse with plenty of gear options. As long as you don't slip, it's quite nice. I climbed this on a beautiful sunny day, and it was indeed very pleasant. My only knock against this route is sheer amount of pidgeon shit, especially on the first anchor ledge. As I was belaying, I was also harrassed by an agressive pidgeon. Not very pleasant.

west pole 5.7+

Many of my friend's favorite route, a great deal of fun for roof lovers. It starts from the same ledge as Old Man's, some flowey face climbing with great passive placements until a big 'ol overhang with some tricky moves. The crux beta is to grab that sus flake to pull you over the roof. I'd also advise splitting the second pitch into two, and belaying at the ledge below the roof for an optimal catch. I found this quite enjoyable.

gunsight to south peak 5.4

Regarded as the best route at Seneca... I think it is just the most exposed. You start at gunsight notch, accessible by scrambling up the east face or climbing the first pitch of greenwall/debbie (beta below), then you traverse a tiny ridge to the summit. I prefer to do it all in one pitch until I reach the repell anchors on the east face. Although the climbing is easy, I am still terrified leading it, because I am afraid of heights somehow. I prefer to follow and work on removing the bountiful booty that always seems to populate this route. This is the one you take your sport climbing friends up so they think you're cool.

greenwall 5.7, debbie 5.6

Guys, don't climb banana. Instead, easily link the first pitch of greenwall to the debbie ledge, and enjoy not pulling on the world's sussiest flake. Greenwall by itself is also a good time, some 5.7's at seneca feel like 5.10's, but Greenwall is chill, pretty, and actually a 5.7. It's easy to find, just the big green wall next to pleasant overhangs, starting at the same ledge as tomato and banana. Debbie is also a pretty cool finger crack with bomber nut placements, but I think I climbed it in like five minutes max. :(

ecstasy 5.7

Ecstasy can be found at the base of the Stairmaster. It is a gorgeous route although finding your way around might be difficult, as the second pitch starts with a wide traverse to the right, arriving at a large wall with chalked jugs everywhere. I think it's better to do in two pitches to avoid an awkward hanging belay. When I climbed it, the wind was at an unusual 65mph, and I could barely keep myself from blowing off the first anchor. Luckily when I rounded the corner to start the 'fun' part of the route, the sun came out.

ecstasy junior 5.4

Located a quarter of the way up the Stairmaster, to the right. I climbed it in three pitches, but you could very well solo the first. This climb was an excellent suprise, as both me and my partner led it blind. A tense traverse to a well protected crack, to a lovely hollow cave and a short roof. Climb this to skip most of the Stairmaster. I'd rather climb this one hundred times than walk the Stairmaster. Great 5.4.

the burn 5.8

Right next to ecstasy junior, two pitches although I prefer the second pitch of ej which is easily linkable. Apparently this route breaks a lot of ankles, I can see why. The crux is right above a very solid ledge, and there's not any 10/10 protection for awhile so you just have to book it. Grade wise, it's the hardest lead I've done at Seneca. But despite the dramatic mountain project comments claiming this is a 10a, I found this route pretty solid as a 5.6 warrior. Not sure if I reccomend this.

le gourmet 5.4, front c 5.6, critter crack 5.6

Located at South Peak, West Face, right at the end of the dreaded Stairmaster. Le Gourmet is a good warm-up or begginner lead. Critter Crack is less 'crack' than I expected, the good variety of footholds to either side of the crack explain its 5.6 rating. Although I do believe it is a very accurate old school 5.7 wearing a 5.6 hat. Climber beware!

alcoa presents 5.8

I toproped this, linking it up with Bogtrotter and Conn's East Direct for a great sustained crack. The crux was very hard for me, but this route is awesome, so many finger and hand jams! I think in the future I could link this up with conns east direct for a pretty fun day. Conn's East Direct was also incredible, and my favorite of the three. It had a beautiful flow and I was able to climb it smoothly. Shame it's so short!

triple s 5.8+

Jams, stemming, off-width galore! Very reachy and occassionally very wet. Climbing wise, probably my favorite route at Seneca.

reeds creek

Reeds Creek is notably, not Seneca. But when you live in the area and don't climb trad, as most of the seasonal workers at NRocks, you bust your butt down to Franklin quite often. There's a lot of good sport in the Smokehole area, but Reeds is the best for sure. Some of the routes even rival the New. Well, like three of the routes. I like Reeds, okay???

sea of tranquility 5.10a

One of my first climbs. I remember struggling over and over to squeeze past the triangular wedge that makes the crux of this climb. Recently, I went back and led it without a sweat. Turns out it's a crack problem in the shape of an offwidth.

superman 5.7

A great first outdoor lead, or toprope for brand new climbers. Cool rock formation, easy-peasy climbing, and the option to walk-off at the top, or set up a top-rope from above. There's also a suprise 'round halfway through. Anchor to the tree for top-rope belaying, or else you'll swing off the side.

nelson rocks

You can't climb here without a guide because it's private property. But luckily, I worked at nelson as a via guide for two-ish years. Shame about the access, some of the routes are killer. But it's also nice to have some stuff to yourself.

crescendo 5.10a

Word is out- this climb rules. I love a long-ass itty bitty finger crack, throw in a hand jam here and there and it's perfection. The crux is at the very top of the pumpy crack, either a two finger drag or a layback and high foot will work. Despite the lack of good feet, it's suprisingly solid with great protection for some hot whips. The best Nelson has to offer for sure.

notes

• Word around the block says if you go on monday morning after a busy weekend and a sunday thunderstorm, great bountiful booty will await you.
• Harper's has a pizza place upstairs of its convienience store. It's the best place to eat, despite not being very good. Bonus points if you encounter and pet the cow-sized dog named Bo that wanders around the plaza.
• The Gendarme, named after the 25 ft pinnacle on Seneca that fell in 1987, is also the only local gear shop. It is literally never open.
• On roy gap road, to your right as you pass by the entrance rock-hop to the stairmaster, there's a fresh spring put up by kevin.
• Also down roy gap road is the entrance to the fourth moon highligning preserve, with the world's sickest tree net.

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