Seneca Rocks

Seneca Rocks is a striking geological formation, comprised of white/gray Tuscarora quartzite that have been upended and rotated 90 degrees to form a sharp, distinct ridgeline. The quartzite plate is approximately 250 feet thick, composed of fine grains of sand that were laid down in the Silurian Period some 440 million years ago, in an extensive sand shoal at the edge of the ancient Iapetus Ocean. As the ocean closed and the underlying rock uplifted and folded, millions of years of erosion stripped away the overlying rock and left remnants of the arching folds in the form of these landmark outcrops. During WW2, she was used to train American soldiers in preperation for deployment to Italy. Now, Seneca Rocks is a popular weekend crag for those in the Virginia and DC area.

Seneca is entirely multi-pitch trad climbing, with great exposure and infamously stiff old-school ratings. A full trad rack is needed, with smaller cams, hexes, and tri-cams coming in handy. Climbers who come to her with an inflated ego are often brutally humbled. I highly recommend starting with a climb significantly below your grade ability, even the easier climbs offer a lot to enjoy.

I learned to climb in 2024 while working a seasonal job at Nelson Rocks- the unpopular, ugly younger sister of Seneca Rocks. Despite my intrigue and interest in Seneca, I could not find anyone to take me to the summit. Trad climbing is an expensive, exclusive club for middle-aged white men, and being neither white or male, I was not procedurally assigned a mentor. So I spent the summer gazing longingly at her from the Yokums parking lot - what was up there that I could not have? Soon, I took it upon myself to buy a rack and start leading. Perhaps not the best idea, but neither is climbing Seneca. (BTW, if you're neither white or male, dm me. I'll be your mentor.)

notable routes

pleasant overhangs 5.7

A very large and intimidating climb, this is as 'real' as Seneca can feel. The infamous second pitch is an overhanging traverse, which I found nice and easy (just don't fall...). I climbed this on a beautiful sunny day, and it was very pleasant. My only knock against this route is sheer amount of bird shit on this thing, especially on the first anchor ledge. And as I was belaying, I was harrassed by an agressive pidgeon. Not very pleasant.

le gourmet 5.4, front c 5.6, critter crack 5.6

Located at South Peak, West Face, right at the end of the dreaded Stairmaster (beta on skipping the Stairmaster, see Ecstasy Junior below). I led the first pitch, and discovered a purple cam buried deep within one of the cracks. Andre says it's been there forever. I couldn't get it out, so feel free to try.
Critter Crack is less 'crack' than I expected, the good variety of footholds to either side of the crack explain its 5.6 rating. Although there's no way this is a 5.6. Objectively. It's just not.

ecstasy junior 5.4

Located a quarter of the way up the Stairmaster, to the right. I climbed it in three pitches, but you could very well solo the first. This climb was an excellent suprise, as both me and my partner led it blind. A tense traverse to a well protected crack, to a lovely hollow cave and a short roof. Climb this to skip most of the Stairmaster. I'd rather climb this one hundred times than walk the Stairmaster.

reeds creek

Reeds Creek is notably, not Seneca. But when you live in the area and don't climb trad, as most of the seasonal workers at NRocks, you bust your butt down to Franklin quite often. There's a lot of good sport in the Smokehole area, but Reeds is the best for sure. Some of the routes even rival the New. Well, like three of the routes. I like Reeds, okay???

sea of tranquility 5.10a

One of my first climbs. I remember struggling over and over to squeeze past the triangular wedge that makes the crux of this climb. Recently, I went back and led it without a sweat. Turns out it's a crack problem in the shape of an offwidth.

nelson rocks

You can't climb here without a guide because it's private property. But luckily, I worked at nelson as a via guide for two-ish years. Shame about the access, some of the routes are killer. But it's also nice to have some stuff to yourself.

crescendo 5.10a

Word is out- this climb rules. I love a long-ass itty bitty finger crack, throw in a hand jam here and there and it's perfection. As a trad route, ain't no way I'll be able to lead this for awhile. But despite the lack of good feet, it's suprisingly solid. The best Nelson has to offer for sure.

notes

• Word around the block says if you go on monday morning after a busy weekend and a sunday thunderstorm, great bountiful booty will await you.
• Harper's has a pizza place upstairs of its convienience store. It's the best place to eat, despite not being very good. Bonus points if you encounter and pet the cow-sized dog named Bo that wanders around the plaza.

gallery